Cool in Cardiff

We know the thought of visiting Cardiff might not immediately send shivers of anticipation down your spine. The capital of Wales, the little country protruding from England's west side like a cocked hip, Cardiff always seemed a bit of a backwater.

But for the past couple decades the city's been undergoing major rehabbing that has resulted in a revitalized waterfront, a performing arts center as fine as about any in Europe and a new stadium that routinely draws superstar acts. As a result, Cardiff's been getting some big love in recent years from publications like "Traveler," who named it a top ten place to visit.

Despite the facelift and attention, Cardiff -- which flourished in the 1800s during the coal boom -- has managed to keep its edgy, working-class heart, giving the city a unique energy and appeal. Many of its citizens still speak the native tongue; those who don't might as well given their often-impenetrable English. But like the Irish, the Welsh love Americans and the LGBT scene is as welcoming as it is boisterous. Just a two-hour train ride from London's Paddington Station, Cardiff is a charmer well worth the jaunt during your next U.K. getaway.

Pub Crawling

Cardiff has two main drags where its LGBT bars are clustered: Churchill Way and Charles Street, both situated in the center of the city and a stone's throw from each other. But for one of Europe's most historic gay pubs, make tracks to The Golden Cross. Located in a landmark building dating back to 1849, the Golden Cross is famed for its decorative glazed tiles inside and out, including a jaw-dropping mural of Cardiff Castle. A brothel back in the day, it's more laid back now but still offers occasional drag shows, colorful characters and good pub grub.

The queen of Churchill Way, WOW Bar serves up a whirlwind of drink specials, drag, karaoke, DJs and/or cabaret every night of the week. This is Wales, so you also might catch a rugby match on the tube, and there's a full restaurant menu from noon until 4 p.m., with traditional roast dinners on Sundays.

Across the street, competitor Pulse dishes out cheap eats (an eight ounce sirloin steak is about $7) and male strippers once a week. Weekends are men only at Cardiff's Eagle, a basement bar with leather, rubber, bear and uniform nights. It's on Charles, opposite the Eagle50 Sauna, which reopened in July after a major renovation and now sports two cinema rooms, a 15-man steam room, a six-man hot tub and more on four floors.

Seeing the Sights

Even if Madonna isn't playing Millennium Stadium (she opened her Sticky and Sweet World Tour there), Cardiff's got plenty of entertainment and culture to hold your attention. Spend an afternoon walking around Cardiff Bay, a gorgeous waterfront distinguished by contemporary architectural showstoppers like the slate and glass Senedd, where the National Assembly meets and the Millennium Centre, home to the national opera and seven other major arts organizations. The Centre's edifice is worth seeing and is inscribed with two lines of Welsh poetry: "Creating truth like glass from the furnace of inspiration" and "In these stones horizons sing."

But Cardiff hasn't dismantled its precious history in its drive to improve. Cardiff Castle, some of which dates back to the Romans, provides the city's best view from atop its 11th-century keep. The National Museum Cardiff has amassed one of the best collections of Impressionist works in Europe and as a bonus it's located in the Civic Centre, chock full of glorious Edwardian structures.

Also be sure to take an hour to browse the delightful Cardiff Market, in operation for more than a century, and grab a couple Welsh cakes, the national treat.

Taking a Snooze

Whether you want to splurge or conserve your cash, Cardiff offers perfect LGBT-friendly hotels. For the height of luxury, Cathedral 73, ensconced in a grand Victorian townhouse, offers lux extras like butler service, a personal chef and a chauffeured Rolls-Royce.

Another city favorite is The Park Inn, which partners each October with Cardiff's Iris Prize Festival, one of the world's most prestigious LGBT film festivals. Reasonably priced but stylish nonetheless, it's just a few minutes away from Cardiff Central Station.