November 8, 2024
Out with Dr. Bill – Paris Memories, Old and New
Dr. William Kapfer READ TIME: 11 MIN.
Our journey to Paris on the Eurostar began with an unexpected twist. A citywide cycling event had blocked our usual route, and our bellman at the Trafalgar St. James London, Curio Collection by Hilton, became an unexpected hero. He cheerfully pushed our luggage trolley–two weeks' worth of bags–across four city blocks to bypass the barricades and hail us a taxi. We make it a point to stay at Hilton properties whenever possible, as they're known for being LGBTQ+ friendly and consistently score 100% on The Human Rights Campaign Foundation's Corporate Equality Index.
Thanks to our "Hero with a Hotel Cart," we were able to flag down a taxi and finally make our way to St. Pancras International Station, ready for our Parisian adventure.
Our driver, clearly a seasoned pro, navigated the lively scene with ease, even managing to wave down a police officer at one point to move a barricade so we could pull right up to the station's front door. This impromptu VIP treatment was a welcome surprise!
Once inside, we headed to the Eurostar lounge–a perk we've enjoyed since reaching Carte Blanche status in the Club Eurostar loyalty program. The lounge offered a calm break from the bustling main departure area, complete with a smoothie bar, snacks, and newspapers. Unlike Amtrak's Metropolitan Lounge in NYC's Moynihan Train Hall, which has a private elevator down to the tracks, the Eurostar lounge experience herded us into a busy crowd scrambling for the moving walkway–affectionately known as the "travelator"–to reach the platform. Quite the mob scene!
After what felt like a mile-long trek to reach our car at the front of the train, we finally settled into our seats, facing each other and both lucky enough to have window views. Eric took the backward-facing seat–a fun twist–while I looked forward to relaxing for the next 2 hours and 16 minutes on our way to Paris.
Starting the Day with Purpose: WEConnect at Disneyland Paris
Arriving in Paris, I was immediately drawn into the purpose of my visit: attending the WEConnect International conference at Disneyland Paris, a short 45-minute train ride from the city. Being part of this event as a board member fills me with pride; it's an unparalleled gathering that unites women business owners and leaders worldwide, giving them the tools, connections, and support to grow.
Those early morning commutes were such a small price to pay for the chance to witness the incredible work WEConnect does in building a more inclusive global economy. Every pre-dawn start was worth it to be surrounded by such energy and dedication.
A real highlight of the conference for me was catching up with friends and colleagues from different parts of the world. I especially enjoyed time with Pavel Subrt, who came from Austria, and Peter Zerp, from Amsterdam. Both traveled solo, leaving their husbands back home, and we wrapped up the conference with a cozy, post-event cocktail afternoon, sharing stories and strengthening our bond. It was one of those simple yet memorable moments that made the experience even more rewarding.
Enjoying Paris Unrushed
Having visited Paris so many times, we didn't feel the need to rush around, checking off sights from a list. Before heading to the Eiffel Tower, we spent a calm afternoon at the Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris.
The outside buzzed with the frenzy of Fashion Week preparations, but inside, the museum offered a serene escape, letting us enjoy the collection without the usual rush. The quiet halls provided the perfect counterpoint to our busy itinerary.
Once finished, we took a lovely, leisurely walk along the Seine. The path was packed with runners, sticking to their designated side of the street, giving the whole scene anvibrant feel.
As we walked along the Seine, we admired glimpses of the Eiffel Tower from various spots, each view feeling like a postcard. We also passed by Notre Dame, which is nearing the end of its extensive renovation. With most of the scaffolding down and only a few secure barriers remaining, seeing it restored felt like witnessing the resilience of this beloved landmark–and this city.
Finally, we arrived at the Eiffel Tower, and I was thrilled to see it proudly adorned with the Olympic rings–a breathtaking reminder of the recent 2024 Summer Games that had filled Paris with excitement just a month before. Over 10 million people had poured into the city, cheering in the streets and stadiums, creating an incredible energy that still lingered in the air.
Standing beneath the Tower, I could almost hear the echoes of those roaring crowds, feel the pulse of celebration, and imagine the magic that had brought the world together in the City of Light. I could even picture Céline Dion's voice ringing out from the Tower as she sang "L'Hymne à l'amour" to close the Opening Ceremony.
Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo even wants to keep the Olympic rings on the Tower a little while longer. Though they're too heavy to remain as they are, there are plans to replace them with lighter versions so they can continue to shine over the city.
A Parisian Afternoon and Timeless Moments: Reliving Our Youth in Le Marais
After visiting the Eiffel Tower, we headed to a lively beer bar called Le Quetzal, tucked away in the vibrant Le Marais neighborhood at 23 Rue du Temple. I had checked the GayCities Guide beforehand to find the perfect spot for a quick beer before returning to our hotel–the Niepce Paris Hotel, Curio Collection by Hilton. GayCities is a fantastic resource, especially for LGBTQ+ travelers, with recommendations for friendly spots in over 280 cities worldwide.
Returning to Paris brought back memories of one of our first trips together, nearly 34 years ago. I'm reminded of a photo we took back then, with Eric pouring me a glass of Chianti. We were just kids with dark hair and the cheapest bottle on the menu, fully immersed in our own Parisian experience. We relived the nostalgia over lunch the next day near Notre Dame, once again sharing a bottle of red wine, as if we could capture that feeling of youth and exploration all over again.
Paris Nights: Fashion, Friends, and Fervor
Our last night in Paris was nothing short of magical, highlighted by reuniting with our dear friend, Marisa Berenson. Marisa had flown in from Morocco for Fashion Week to attend her late grandmother Elsa Schiaparelli's show. Ever the insider, she managed to secure us a reservation at the iconic LIPP, the legendary Saint-Germain-des-Prés brasserie that's been her go-to for four decades.
Known for its classic French cuisine and famous clientele of intellectuals, artists, and politicians, LIPP was the perfect setting for a quintessentially Parisian evening. In our cozy, intimate booth–one where the maître d' must pull the table out to help you squeeze in–we were instantly immersed in the vibrant, close-knit atmosphere that makes Paris unforgettable.
As we chatted, Marisa casually pointed to a younger-looking guy seated just a seat away from Eric. "I say younger," she teased, "since he's only 35." It turned out to be Gabriel Attal, France's former prime minister, who holds the title of youngest and first openly gay prime minister, serving from January to September 2024.
Across from him sat Michel Barnier, the current prime minister, and at 73, the oldest to ever hold the position in France's Fifth Republic. Only in Paris, right?
Marisa told us LIPP is famous for its political and celebrity sightings–a key part of its legendary status.
After reminiscing about our recent visit to her home in Marrakech, we decided to FaceTime her daughter, Starlite, to include her in our reunion. Despite the restaurant's lively atmosphere, we all took turns pressing the phone to our ears, laughing at the challenge but thrilled to share the moment together.
Marisa had an early start the next morning for the Schiaparelli show, so we hugged her goodnight and continued on to Soho House in the Marais district to enjoy our favorite Eastern Standard cocktail.
Fashion Week festivities were in full swing, with the main floor packed with young fashionistas–pencil-thin and barely old enough to drink–who added a contagious energy to the night. Every corner of Soho House buzzed with excitement, music, and that unmistakable ambiance only Paris during Fashion Week can deliver.
As the night wound down, Eric and I reflected on the rich layers of this trip: the adventure of getting here, the thrill of reconnecting with Paris's landmarks, the warmth of longtime friendships, and that unique Parisian magic that makes each memory feel extraordinary
From United Skies to New York Nights
We'd booked an early morning flight back to New York, perfectly timed so we could land, drop our bags at our Chelsea apartment, and still have plenty of time to make it to the annual Legacy for Equality Dinner with our fellow Lambda Legal Guardian Society members at The Smith Midtown on 2nd Avenue. With traffic on the East Side virtually gridlocked due to United Nations meetings, we anticipated the challenge of getting uptown and across town, so we gave ourselves extra time to take the subway.
Flying United Airlines from Paris to New York was as smooth and comfortable as ever. Starting the journey in the United Club lounge at Charles de Gaulle Airport added a special touch, making the trip feel enjoyable from the start. Pre-flight lounges are ideal places to unwind, catch up on work, or enjoy a quiet meal before boarding an eight-hour flight.
Once on board, United's transatlantic service didn't disappoint. Polaris makes the experience memorable, especially when Eric and I manage to sit next to each other–something that doesn't always happen.
From takeoff to landing, the entire inflight experience was a treat–especially the hot fudge sundae I savored for dessert. It was the perfect little luxury that made the journey feel special. With onboard Wi-Fi, we could easily catch up on emails and messages, staying connected even at 35,000 feet. After about eight hours in the air, we touched down at Newark, feeling refreshed and grateful to be home.
We managed to get back, shower, and change in time to meet with friends and celebrate at the Lambda Legal dinner, feeling incredibly fortunate to support such an important cause. It was all quite a whirlwind, but worth every exciting minute!